It’s also one of the most homogeneous; it climbs up the hill from the waves of the sea, rather than clinging vertically to it like some of the other famous destinations like Positano, making it a little easier to get around.
Amalfi is one of the most historic towns on the Amalfi Coast, having had a proud history as a maritime republic whose status joined the ranks of the coastal cities of Pisa, Venice and Genoa. It was a trade bridge between the Byzantine and Western worlds for centuries. Its importance in that historic trading league is celebrated annually with the Regatta of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics, which takes place every June, alternating between the four cities to once again battle for seafaring bragging rights. It’s a spectacular event.
The town begins on the seafront with a lovely promenade along the Mediterranean and a marina filled with colourful boats flying their international flags. The focal point of the old town is the Piazza del Duomo, in front of the impressive cathedral. The square is lined with outdoor cafes and elegant shops, but the sixty steps leading up to the church beg to be scaled back to see the Byzantine-style structure that features arches and Moorish-influenced decorations.
Dedicated to Saint Andrew, the Duomo di Sant’Andrea is a truly beautiful structure. Inside is the hidden Cloister of Paradise, dating back to 1266, with a forest of columns, arabesque arches and an incredible fresco. The crypt is highly ornate and worth a visit.
The Italian sailor Flavio Gioia was an Amalfi native who is credited with inventing the modern-style magnetic compass and its portable container. There is a monument and square in his honor here in his hometown. The “Amalfi Tables” are ancient drafts of Amalfi’s intricate maritime codes, preserved in the Civic Museum.
The town has a long history as a paper mill center, so be sure to stop by the Paper Museum to see how the beautiful products were (and still are!) handmade. There are still a few family-run paper mills that continue the tradition.
Looking around the town and surrounding hills, you’ll quickly see that the area’s main product is a huge sphere of lemons, picked fresh to make limoncello and also used in local dishes. The lemon motif appears in regional ceramics, and the citrus scent fills the air as you wander.
The Emerald Grotto is one of Amalfi’s natural wonders, at Capo Conca. It emits a mysterious emerald hue that emanates from its depths thanks to an underwater fissure that refracts sunlight.
Amalfi’s maritime importance continues, as you can set sail on ferries and hydrofoils to Salerno, Positano, Sorrento and Capri, or you can rent a boat to take you to hidden bays to enjoy a day of sun and private sailing. Buses connect the town to Ravello, Positano and Sorrento.
The architectural and artistic values of its historic monuments and buildings, the indescribable beauty of its landscapes, its folklore and traditions have made and continue to make Amalfi a place without comparison, so much so that it has been said: “For an Amalfitan, the day he goes to heaven is like any other day.”
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